Hamnøy, Lofoten: Red Rorbuer Cabins, Cod Fishing and How to Get There

Hamnøy is the little fishing village on the E10 bridge route in Lofoten, northern Norway, where red rorbuer cabins line the water beneath steep mountain walls. It sits on the east side of the island of Moskenesøya, about 1.5 km north-east of Reine, and its view across the harbour has featured in National Geographic and Condé Nast Traveler.

Where Hamnøy is and how it connects to Reine

Hamnøy belongs to Moskenes Municipality in Nordland county, near the southern end of the Lofoten chain, facing the Vestfjorden. For generations it was linked to Reine only by ferry. Today bridges on European route E10 carry the road across, and the Hamnøy bridge itself is the classic place to stand for the view of cabins, harbour and mountains.

Lofoten lies well north of the Arctic Circle: Leknes, the main town in the west, is about 169 km beyond it. Yet the winters are surprisingly mild for the latitude, because warm currents in the Norwegian Sea and Atlantic air keep the coast from freezing.

Rorbuer and a thousand years of cod fishing

Lofoten has been one of the great cod-fishing centres of Europe for more than 1,000 years. Every winter the cod migrate from the Barents Sea to spawn in these waters, and the fishing season shaped the villages, their harbours and their buildings.

The red waterfront cabins, rorbuer, are the traditional seasonal houses of Norwegian fishermen. Each stands on land with one end on poles over the water, so boats could be reached easily. Many in Hamnøy, including Eliassen Rorbuer, are now rented to visitors, so you can wake up to the same view the photographers chase. Remember that the village is also a working harbour and home for residents: use the public viewpoints and keep the road clear.

Best time to visit: midnight sun or northern lights

• Summer: the midnight sun shines over Lofoten from late May to mid-July (around 26 May to 17 July at Leknes). Hiking, kayaking on the Reinefjord and long golden evenings take over.
• Winter: the sun stays below the horizon for about a month around the solstice (roughly 9 December to 4 January at Leknes). The soft blue light, snow on the peaks and the chance of the northern lights make this the favourite season for photographers.

Getting to Hamnøy

Bodø is the usual gateway. Car ferries run from Bodø to Moskenes, a short drive from Hamnøy, and there are flights to Leknes and Svolvær with onward buses. The E10 links the larger islands by bridges and undersea tunnels and connects to the mainland via the Lofast road, opened in 2007. There are no trains on the islands; the nearest railway is at Narvik. Check current timetables with Visit Lofoten.

For a more northerly Norwegian island setting, explore Svalbard’s changing seasons. For a wider view of the country, continue with ten Norwegian places and regions, or cross into Sweden for Jokkmokk’s winter market in Sweden.

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