The trek to Everest Base Camp climbs from the tiny airstrip at Lukla, 2,846 metres up in Nepal’s Khumbu region, to Everest Base Camp at 5,364 metres. Freya, the Belgian traveller behind the blog Holiday Nomad, walked it and brought back a photo diary of the whole journey, from the flight in to the sunset on Everest from Kala Patthar. Here are her photographs, stage by stage, with the facts behind each stop.

Lukla to Namche Bazaar: flight, mani stones and suspension bridges
Most trekkers fly in from Kathmandu to Lukla, one of the most dramatic mountain airstrips in the world. From there the trail follows the Dudh Kosi valley north through Phakding and Monjo, past carved mani stones, and crosses the river on high suspension bridges. The whole route lies inside Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site covering 1,148 km² of the Khumbu.
The classic first goal is Namche Bazaar at 3,440 metres, the central hub of the region. It usually takes about two days to get there from Lukla, followed by a rest day to acclimatise. On clear days the first views of Everest appear on the climb up, and the Sherpa museum in Namche tells the story of the people who have made these mountains their home.








Tengboche Monastery and the views of Ama Dablam
Beyond Namche the trail continues to Tengboche, perched on a hill at the meeting of the Dudh Kosi and Imja Khola rivers at 3,867 metres. Its monastery was founded in 1916 by Lama Gulu. An earthquake destroyed it in 1934 and a fire in 1989; each time it was rebuilt, the second time with volunteer and international help, and it was consecrated again in 1993. In the tenth Tibetan month, roughly October–November, the monastery hosts Mani Rimdu, the most important festival of the Sherpa people.
From Tengboche and the walk on to Pangboche, the view is dominated by the sharp summit of Ama Dablam, with Everest still in sight further up the valley.




Dingboche, Lobuche and the climbers’ memorials
About two days above Namche lies Dingboche, at 4,260 metres, where trekkers take a second acclimatisation day. Above it the trees are long gone and the terrain becomes rock, moraine and open views of the high peaks.
On the way up to Lobuche the trail passes stone memorials to climbers who died on Everest, hung with prayer flags. One of them honours Scott Fischer, the American mountaineer and guide who died on the mountain in 1996. It is a quiet, moving place to pause.




Everest Base Camp and the sunset from Kala Patthar
From Lobuche it is a short day to Gorak Shep, the last lodges on the route, set on a flat field below Kala Patthar. Base Camp itself, at 5,364 metres, lies further on, among the rock and ice of the Khumbu Glacier, marked by a sign and strings of prayer flags.
The best view of Everest is not from Base Camp but from Kala Patthar, a 5,545-metre hill above Gorak Shep. Freya climbed it for sunset, when the summit glows long after the valleys below have gone dark. Snow then caught her on the walk back down, a reminder of how quickly the weather changes at this height.
Plan on about six walking days from Lukla to Base Camp plus at least two rest days, and the return takes several more. Go slowly and listen to your body: altitude sickness is the main reason people turn back, and descending is the cure.








For another traveller’s mountain record, explore Zahariz Khuzaimah’s winter journey in Kyrgyzstan, or read the story behind Ashley and James’s Everest Base Camp wedding photographs.
Related reading
- Chandratal: The Moon Lake in Lahaul and Spiti
- Teton Gravity Research’s Aerial Film of Everest, Ama Dablam and Lhotse
- Everest Waste: The 2014 Rule and the Work beyond the Summit
- Everest’s Mountain Workers: The Sherpa’s Story
- The Khumbu Icefall through Theodore Fairhurst’s Helmet Camera
Sources
- Everest base camps – Wikipedia
- Tengboche Monastery – Wikipedia
- Photos: Freya, Holiday Nomad, via Bored Panda




No comments