Besseggen is Norway's most famous mountain hike. The ridge in Jotunheimen National Park runs between two lakes of startlingly different colour: emerald-green Gjende on one side and deep blue Bessvatnet on the other, almost 400 metres higher. More than 60,000 people walk it every year.
Besseggen Ridge in Jotunheimen National Park
Besseggen lies in Vågå Municipality, Innlandet county, in the heart of Jotunheimen, "the home of the giants". The ridge itself is only about a kilometre long, but it climbs roughly 250 metres in a steep, rocky staircase. The route's highest point, Veslfjellet, reaches 1,743 metres.
The famous view comes from the contrast between the lakes. Gjende is fed by glacier meltwater full of fine clay, or rock flour, which gives it its milky green-turquoise colour. Bessvatnet, perched on the other side of the narrow crest, is clear and dark blue.
Gjende’s colour stands out against the surrounding land. Credit: Vincent Steeman.
The Besseggen hike: distance, time and route
The classic traverse runs 14 km between Memurubu and Gjendesheim, with about 1,200 metres of total climbing and descent. Visit Norway estimates 7–8 hours for most people; the boat operator quotes 5–7 hours from Memurubu back to Gjendesheim for fit walkers.
- Start: most hikers take the boat from Gjendesheim to Memurubu and walk back over the ridge, so the car is waiting at the end.
- The ridge: the narrow section between the lakes involves some scrambling with hands on rock, and can feel exposed if you dislike heights.
- Short version: walking from Gjendesheim lets you climb to the viewpoint above the ridge and turn back without crossing it.
The ground-level view reveals a demanding mountain surface. Credit: Sidetracked.
The Gjende boat, parking and the best season
The Gjende boat links Gjendesheim, Memurubu and Gjendebu, with up to seven daily departures from Gjendesheim. The operator lists the 2027 season as 5 June to 25 September, with booking opening on 1 December 2026. Reserve ahead: summer departures fill up quickly. See the Gjendebåten information for timetables and fares.
Parking is at Reinsvangen, 1.5 km before Gjendesheim, with a shuttle to the trailhead and boat. The hiking season runs roughly from late June to early September, once the snow has cleared from the ridge.
Tips for the hike, and the Peer Gynt legend
Wear sturdy hiking boots with good soles, and pack warm, waterproof layers even on a sunny morning, because mountain weather changes fast. Carry enough food and water for the whole day. A small towel and swimwear are worth bringing for a cold dip in Bessvatnet. Stay on the marked path to limit erosion.
The ridge has a literary claim to fame too. In Act 1 of Henrik Ibsen's Peer Gynt, Peer tells his mother Åse a tall tale about riding a reindeer buck along the ridge, then called Gjendineggen, and plunging down towards the lake.
Read the full route description in Visit Norway’s route description. For more hikes and mountain trips, see Oulanka’s forests and rivers and Half Dome’s cable route.
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- Jotunheimen The Home of Giants In Norway
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