Ines Papert, Ian Parnell and Audrey Gariepy take on Scottish winter climbing in a film recorded by Hans Hornberger. The combination of steep terrain and changing weather gives the footage a demanding, close-to-the-rock atmosphere.
Traditional climbing and the role of protection
Traditional protection is selected and placed during a climb, with belays arranged for the route and conditions. The absence of a line of permanent bolts is therefore not the same as having no protection or anchors. The distinction helps explain the deliberate decisions visible around the climbing, without turning a short film into instructions for placing equipment.
A Scottish winter route in its own context
Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears is the named ascent in the account, rather than a description of every Scottish winter route. Its grade belongs to that particular climb. The film is also a record of people working together: the climbers move through terrain while the camera operator has to find positions from which that movement can be seen. Watching the pauses as well as the steep sections gives a fuller impression of the day. An approach, a discussion or a change of position may be less dramatic than a difficult move, but each belongs to the effort of making the ascent and recording it.
Explore more: why mountain height is not a difficulty rating; other questions raised by winter mountain conditions.
Video: Winter Climbing in Scotland (English) (published by GORE-TEX® Brand).
The climbers and Hans Hornberger’s camera work
Ines Papert climbed with Britain’s Ian Parnell and Canada’s Audrey Gariepy, with Hans Hornberger accompanying the group to film. The original described long approaches, wet and windy conditions, and days continuing until darkness. Those details explain why the outing involved much more than the steep movement shown in a short climbing shot.
The reported VIII,8 on-sight ascent
The account reported Papert’s on-sight lead of Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears at Scottish grade VIII,8, and presented it as a milestone for a woman climbing at that grade in Scotland. The claim remains attributed to that historical account. It should not be converted into an unqualified first across every style, route or grading system.
Sources, photography and further reading
Original feature and image attributions:
- Walking on the Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia, Argentina
- The Best Mount Everest Ice Fall Video
- WHITE NOISE - FULL Movie (Xavier de Le Rue Freeride Snowboarding)
- Chile Snowboard Freestyle and Freeride
- We Ride - The Story of Snowboarding (Full Movie)
- Snowboarding Madness in Colorado
- Don't Panic Snowboard Clips
- The Balance of Powder - An Amazing Ski and Snowboard Movie
- This Is Skiing!
- First Kite Skiing of the Mount Eiger in Switzerland
- why mountain height is not a difficulty rating
- other questions raised by winter mountain conditions
- Winter Climbing in Scotland (English)
The bottom picture is from the Canadian Rockies not Scotland. Please give due credit to the appropriate photographer, and maybe include actual climbing shots from Scotland - I would like to see more of what Scotland has to offer.
ReplyDeletei like the climing sport and i will join the climbing courses. thank for sharing the more information of climbing sports and technique.
ReplyDelete